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Introduction

Use this guide to remove the power/sleep button from your iPhone 5s.

This guide requires removing the battery. The adhesive strips securing the battery are not re-usable, so you'll want to have a supply of replacement adhesive strips on hand before you begin. Alternatively, you can secure the battery using a piece of double-sided tape. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but the tape will keep it from rattling.

  1. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

  2. Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

  3. In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips. Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display. If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.
    • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

    • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

    • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

    • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

  4. The next two steps demonstrate using the [product|IF145-243|iSclack], a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5s that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to [invalid guide link]. Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws. Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.
    • The next two steps demonstrate using the [product|IF145-243|iSclack], a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5s that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to [invalid guide link].

    • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

    • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

    • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

  5. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case. The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.
    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

    • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

    • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

    • Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

  6. If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
    • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

  7. The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.
    • The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

    • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

    • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The 5s front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  8. Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them. Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
    • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them.

    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

  9. Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable. Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far. Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.
    • Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

    • Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

    • Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

    • The next two steps apply to reassembly. Skip them and continue to Step 12 until reassembly.

  10. During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, and the front must latch down over the connector. Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.
    • During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, and the front must latch down over the connector.

    • Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

  11. Use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector. If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector.

    • If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket. Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

    • Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

  13. Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
    • Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

  14. Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.
    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

  15. Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

  16. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

  17. Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
    • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

    • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don't force them. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

  18. Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.
    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

  20. While still supporting the front panel, disconnect the LCD cable connector. When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
    • While still supporting the front panel, disconnect the LCD cable connector.

    • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

  21. Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector. Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
    • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

  22. Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.
    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  23. Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.

  24. Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.
    • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

  25. Use a spudger to gently pry the button assembly cable up from its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to only pry up on the connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
    • Use a spudger to gently pry the button assembly cable up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

  26. Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable up from its socket on the logic board. Fold the Lightning connector cable out of the way of the logic board. Fold the Lightning connector cable out of the way of the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Fold the Lightning connector cable out of the way of the logic board.

  27. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable from its socket on the logic board.

  29. Remove any tape covering the camera flash bracket.
    • Remove any tape covering the camera flash bracket.

  30. Remove the following screws from the logic board:
    • Remove the following screws from the logic board:

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • This screw also holds a small metal contact beneath the logic board. It's held in place underneath a plastic bracket, but if you see it slipping out, refer to this step to remove it.

    • Two 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • Four 2.8 mm standoff screws

    • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove these standoff screws.

    • During reassembly, you can use the tip of a spudger to get the standoff screw started.

  31. Use a plastic opening tool to lift the logic board up enough to grab with your fingers. Use a plastic opening tool to lift the logic board up enough to grab with your fingers.
    • Use a plastic opening tool to lift the logic board up enough to grab with your fingers.

  32. Pull the logic board slightly away from the rear facing camera. Do not try to remove the logic board just yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back. Flip the logic board toward the battery, as if you are turning the page in a book.
    • Pull the logic board slightly away from the rear facing camera.

    • Do not try to remove the logic board just yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.

    • Flip the logic board toward the battery, as if you are turning the page in a book.

  33. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable on the back of the logic board. Remove the logic board from the iPhone.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable on the back of the logic board.

    • Remove the logic board from the iPhone.

  34. At this point, a small metal plate near the rear facing camera is loose and may come free from its recess. Because it is very small and easy to lose, it's best to remove this plate and set it aside while you continue to work on your phone. Use tweezers to remove the plate from beneath the bracket to the left of the rear-facing camera.
    • At this point, a small metal plate near the rear facing camera is loose and may come free from its recess.

    • Because it is very small and easy to lose, it's best to remove this plate and set it aside while you continue to work on your phone.

    • Use tweezers to remove the plate from beneath the bracket to the left of the rear-facing camera.

    • When reassembling, orient the plate with the small tab to the right and the longest flat edge against the top of the phone.

  35. Using a pair of tweezers, flip the rubber camera cover out of its clip and toward the outside of the rear case. Do not attempt to fully remove this cover. It is attached to the rear case and only needs to be flipped open, not removed. Do not attempt to fully remove this cover. It is attached to the rear case and only needs to be flipped open, not removed.
    • Using a pair of tweezers, flip the rubber camera cover out of its clip and toward the outside of the rear case.

    • Do not attempt to fully remove this cover. It is attached to the rear case and only needs to be flipped open, not removed.

  36. Remove the rear-facing camera from the rear case. During reassembly, the camera cable should bend in a 'U' shape to slot in behind the logic board. If the rubber camera bumper has shifted, be sure to replace it before reassembling your iPhone.
    • Remove the rear-facing camera from the rear case.

    • During reassembly, the camera cable should bend in a 'U' shape to slot in behind the logic board.

    • If the rubber camera bumper has shifted, be sure to replace it before reassembling your iPhone.

  37. Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket.

  38. Remove the rear-facing camera bracket from the rear case.
    • Remove the rear-facing camera bracket from the rear case.

  39. Remove the rubber camera bumper from the case.
    • Remove the rubber camera bumper from the case.

  40. Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole in the battery adhesive tab near the headphone jack. Lift the tab up slightly and use the spudger to unfold the tab from its recess. Lift the tab up slightly and use the spudger to unfold the tab from its recess.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole in the battery adhesive tab near the headphone jack.

    • Lift the tab up slightly and use the spudger to unfold the tab from its recess.

  41. Pull the battery adhesive tab straight up from the phone. Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them. Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.
    • Pull the battery adhesive tab straight up from the phone.

    • Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

  42. Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly. Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

  43. Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery. Be careful not to snag it on the corner of the battery or on any of the other internal iPhone components. The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.
    • Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery.

    • Be careful not to snag it on the corner of the battery or on any of the other internal iPhone components.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

  44. Repeat to remove the second adhesive strip. If you removed both strips successfully, skip the next two steps. If either of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strip, and then proceed to the next step.
    • Repeat to remove the second adhesive strip.

    • If you removed both strips successfully, skip the next two steps.

    • If either of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strip, and then proceed to the next step.

  45. If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, [invalid guide link] or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, [invalid guide link] or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

  46. Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.
    • Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.

    • Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

    • Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

  47. Remove the battery from the rear case. When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.
    • Remove the battery from the rear case.

    • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  48. Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the logic board grounding bracket to the rear case.
    • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the logic board grounding bracket to the rear case.

  49. Remove the logic board grounding bracket.
    • Remove the logic board grounding bracket.

  50. Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the contact clip and power/sleep button bracket.
    • Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the contact clip and power/sleep button bracket.

  51. Remove the contact clip from the iPhone. During reassembly, be sure the bracket is properly seated between the rear-facing camera flash and the top edge of the case.
    • Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.

    • During reassembly, be sure the bracket is properly seated between the rear-facing camera flash and the top edge of the case.

  52. Slide the flat end of a spudger under the upper component assembly cable to free it from the rear case. Slide the flat end of a spudger under the upper component assembly cable to free it from the rear case.
    • Slide the flat end of a spudger under the upper component assembly cable to free it from the rear case.

  53. Use the tip of a spudger to free the microphone portion of the assembly from the case. Use the tip of a spudger to free the microphone portion of the assembly from the case.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to free the microphone portion of the assembly from the case.

  54. Use a set of tweezers to swing the power/sleep button bracket away from the case. Use a set of tweezers to swing the power/sleep button bracket away from the case.
    • Use a set of tweezers to swing the power/sleep button bracket away from the case.

  55. Use the tip of a spudger to push the power/sleep button into the phone slightly. Use a set of tweezers to remove the button. Double check the orientation of the button for reassembly. The two "L" shapes should be upside down, and the metal bar should be folded onto the top of the button.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the power/sleep button into the phone slightly.

    • Use a set of tweezers to remove the button.

    • Double check the orientation of the button for reassembly. The two "L" shapes should be upside down, and the metal bar should be folded onto the top of the button.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Dozuki System

Member since: 09/24/2009

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